Dream Came True……Visit to Padmadurga – 26th April 2009

Ever since I started serious trekking, I have heard stories of how difficult it was to visit Padmadurga. Reasons being local fishermen flatly refuse to sail till Padmadurga, being inside the deep sea, Custom Dept.’s & BPT’s permission is required to see the fort etc. etc. So it remained a dream all these years. In 2008 January, I visited, with Mangesh & Ameya, Khanderi – Underi forts which share similar stories & inaccessibility as Padmadurga. The experience of Khanderi – Underi was encouraging & our next target was Padmadurga. 21st December 2008 – Mangesh & Ameya could visit Padmadurga through a fisherman in Rajpuri Koliwada. I missed this chance since I was skeptical whether they will make it to Padmadurga. This fisherman, Messiah to me from Rajpuri is Gopal Kunbi. Immediately, after this successful attempt by Mangesh & Ameya, we (Vinay & I) decided to visit Padmadurga as soon as possible with the help of Gopal. We checked with Aptekaka who immediately agreed to accompany us as even he wanted to desperately visit Padmadurga.

Vinay gathered a group of 14 interested friends to visit Padmadurga so that few more get to visit Padmadurga and the trip works out economical for us. An overnight journey and we reached Rajpuri Koliwada early morning at 4.30 am on 26th April. The group had brief rest in Bhairoba Temple till 6.30 am. I could not sleep properly, thanks to loudspeaker at Bal-Ganesh Mandir which was blaring with Ganesh Aartis & Spiritual Songs. We had tea and our packed breakfast of Bread-butter-chutney-cheese-biscuits at Gopal’s place. Tea took very long to come. It was so much delayed that we were restless & requested Gopal to forget tea and start immediately for Padmadurga . But he was firm in hospitality and did not allow us to leave till we had tea. He also wanted to cook some snacks & feed us. It’s a rare scene in cities. His father expressed his feelings by saying “Tumhi sagale aala, Sant Maybaap” All this Gopal & his family was doing, after partying whole night for a wedding in the village.

We got into Gopal’s Boat at Rajpuri Jetty and started sailing to Padmadurga at 8.00 am. Gopal’s 3 sons & their 2 friends were along to help Gopal. We passed by Janjira, a strong fort of Siddis which remained unconquered till 1947. Shivaji Maharaj and after him Sambhaji Maharaj attempted to capture Janjira by all means like battle, bribe, bridge etc. but did not succeed. To keep a check on Siddis, Shivaji Maharaj ordered constructing a fort, Padmadurga, on an island of Kasa, off the coast of Murud. Padmadurg was built around 1675 by Daulatkhan (an architect) and was controlled by Marathas until 1698 when Siddis captured it and ruled it until the end.


At Padmadurga there is no jetty or a good place to park a boat. To add to our tension, the boat was rocking too much. But Gopal & his team managed to park the boat amidst rocks. We managed to get off a rocking boat onto slippery rocks without anyone getting injured.


We got off near Darya Darwaza which faces east (Murud Coast). This fort is roughly divided in three parts from East to West viz main fort, Padkot and Retaining Wall. Traversing main fort, we entered Padkot first. We prominently noticed many rusted cannons lying all around. Jayaram & Purvesh counted them, the tally was roughly 50. The fortification and few bastions are still standing strong defying the sea waves for almost 335 years. Here Aptekaka read out a warning letter from Shivaji Maharaj to Jivaji Vinayak who was responsible for providing logistical support for building Padmadurga. Padkot has a loo in its fortification, a rare sight on the forts. Arnala fort has one. The main fort has 3 water tanks, some latest construction by customs dept. and some store rooms. It is possible to take a walk on the rampart.


The cementing material used for construction of the fort walls is so strong that the walls / stones have eroded few inches due to lashing waves but this material is still intact without any sign of erosion. At padmadurga we saw broken beer bottles, paper plates, garbage, indicating lot of partying by locals. That must be one of the reasons why they don’t want people to visit Padmadurga.

Fully content, we left Padmadurga at 10 am. We sailed back around Janjira. I was thrilled to see Darya Darwaja of Janjira from Darya. Back to Rajpuri Koliwada, while parking our boat near a barge like platform, boat banged on it as the younger fisher boys could not manage the parking well . Gopal shouted…"Nustach pagar ghetat Yedxxxx, kaam nako karayala randechyana!" His 3 sons were among these randeche. Thanking Gopal and his father we left Rajpuri at 11 am.

We decided to see Samrajgad. Samrajgad is located on a hill near village Ekdara which is between Murud & Rajpuri. No one in the village could help us with directions. Book ‘Vedh Jaladurgancha’ by Shri. Bhagwan Chile came in as help. Following directions from the book, we reached a Shiv temple in Ekdara village from where Murud Coast is seen. Further, uphill is Samrajgad, a relatively unknown fort built by Samrajpant the lieutanent of Shivaji Maharaj. This fort fell to the Siddis in 1675 on a Holi night. The ammunition store was attacked by Siddis, the explosion was so massive that Shivaji Maharaj, who was on Raigad then, woke up to order immediate inspection of Samrajgad’s condition. There is a small double wall showing that Samrajgad existed sometime at this place. Presently, no notable structures exist on the top. Janjira is to the South and Padmadurg is to the North-West of Samrajgad. It was lunch time by then and we moved to Patil Khanaval at Murud. We freaked on Paplet, Kolambi, Ravas, Surmai.

On the way back we halted to see Revdanda Fort at 3 pm. Not much remains here except huge fortification along the beach, few cannons & (must see) Gr + 5 floors tall Bell Tower. The fort walls are about 25 ft high & 15 ft wide. One has to see it to experience the fear that they would have created in the minds of the enemy. This fort was built by the Portuguese on the junction of Kundalika River & Arabian Sea. An important remain on this fort is a symbol of Portuguese Empire above the entrance. Such symbol can also be seen at Vasai & Korlai Forts but here this symbol is peculiar with a Crown jutting out from the main wall. Now many villagers have built houses & Villas inside the fort so not much is left to see. From Revdanda, Korlai Fort seems so close that you can walk it.

We reached Mulund at 7.00 pm after a memorable visit to Sea Forts.

Organisation – Private Trek

Members – Rajan Mahajan, Vinay Kulkarni, Sadanand Apte Kaka, Kiran Khatu, Kavita Joshi, Sandeep K, Hemlata, Nitin K, Purvesh, Milind Kadam, Sachin Patil, Hemant, Chinmay, Jayaram (On bike)

Route – Mulund – Pen – Vadkhal Naka – Alibaug – Revdanda – Murud – Rajpuri.

Food / Water – No water on Padmadurga, Samrajgad. In Revdanda Fort, water is available at Shiv Temple. Water / Food are available at Rajpuri, Murud & Revdanda villages.

Unpleasant Travel …Unlimited Fun == Kelve – Mahim Trek

1st May………and a trek planned after discussions with Shridatta and as per his convenience, was finally happening. His presence on the trek was most important to me as I had got a taste of his expertise during my earlier visits to Vasai Fort.

A group of 26 left Mulund in mini bus for Datiware at 6.30 am. At Varai naka on Ahmedabad Highway we took Saphale diversion. I told Vijay (Bus driver) to switch on the CD player. He told me that there was a problem in the electric circuit due to which CD player was not working. He added that even the Horn’s not working and previous night he drove from Malshej to Mulund without Headlights. This raised an alarm in my mind. I enquired with him as to how he plans to drive the bus back to Mulund in the evening. He had no answer. I checked with him, if it could be done at Saphale but that was not possible according to him.

We took a break at Saphale for Tea and Vadapav. Got a call from Shridatta, he had already reached Datiware with 2 of his friends. We reached Datiware at 10 am. Immediately, we proceeded to Hira Dongri. Hira Dongri has no signs of a fort except a small cave, 6 steps & small dried cistern. To its South is Vaitarna River & Jivdani Fort and South West is Arnala Fort. A small temple of Ghodeshwar with a sculptor of a warrior sitting on the horse & without Shivling is at the base of Hira Dongri. At Hira Dongri, Shridatta published 2 of his books viz. “Vasai Mohimeche Shiledar” & “Vasai Mohimechi Nakshatre” at the hands of our, Shri. Ashok Thorat (Bapumama). From here, we got inside the Datiware village to see that only a single fort wall is remaining to tell us about the presence of Datiwre Fort, once upon a time.

Back to the Bus at 11.45 hrs., we were shocked to see that the Bus did not start. I asked Madhav to check with Chandu Dandekar (Chakram’s senior member, based at Palghar) if he can arrange for a Minibus or 2 jeeps or 3 Tum-tums for our remaining travel. Meanwhile, we tried to Dhakka Start the Bus 4/5 times but it didn’t work. Chandu tried his best but couldn’t arrange a vehicle for us. I had by now decided to leave the bus and carry on with the trek by whichever mode of transport. Then a Tum-Tum came. These Tum-tums ply between Saphale and Datiware. Shridatta checked with Tum-Tum walla and he agreed to drop us till Kelve via Bhavangad. We stuffed all kids, Shridatta, Madhav, Chandra & Subhash in that Tum-Tum, total 16. Others were left with no option but to pray for earliest arrival of another Tum-tum. And it came after 15/20 minutes; the remaining 13 of us managed to get into it and reached Bhavangad at 1 pm. Bhavangad is located near Madhukarnagar. Bhavangad has good fortifications, a cave and Shiv Temple (Bhavaneshwar) on it. Kelve (Janjira) is seen from Bhavangad. Bhavangad was constructed around 1739 by Marathas. The Portuguese tried to capture this fort but were defeated by the Marathas. History tells that Narveer Chimaji Appa visited this fort.

From Bhavangad we reached Kelve beach around 2 pm. Enroute we saw Danda Fort & Kelve Customs Kot from distance. Tum-Tum wallas gave us a big relief by agreeing to accompany us till Palghar with as much waiting as we wanted to see the remaining forts. We were behind schedule by more than 2 hours. The High tide had started, making our chances of entering the Kelve Janjira (also called Kelve Pankot) very dim. Still we thought of giving it a try and started walking on the beach towards the fort. Kelve Janjira Fort is at the junction of Danda Creek and Arabian Sea. To our disappointment, our fear came true. We could not enter the fort and had no option but to see it from a distance. I was very much frustrated as all the efforts and planning taken to see this particular fort went down the drain. The fort that I wanted to see for so many years was right there in front of me but I could do nothing to enter it. Those moments were disheartening.

We had lunch of Puri-Bhaji-Dal-Chaval at a hotel near Shitladevi Temple. Post lunch at 3.45 pm, we started for Kelve Kot. It’s on the beach amidst Suru trees. Until few years back, this kot was buried under sand. Shridatta’s team dug into it and removed 7/8 truckloads of sand from and around it. Kelve Kot is small but strong fort. The architecture is Portuguese and the shape is like a star. Next on the list was Mahim Fort. We reached Mahim Fort at 4.30 pm. It’s behind Government Hospital. It was in a neglected state and all garbage from hospital was dumped in until Shridatta’s team raised awareness and tried to restore the fort. Mahim is again a small fort divided in 2 sections. The front section has a prominent staircase at the centre to climb onto ramparts of fort. It has a dried well. The second section is on upper level and looks more like a prayer hall. The USP here is blue paint on the walls which still remains intact. There is also a small fountain in this section.

Last on the list was Shirgaon Fort. Mahim to Shirgaon road goes through tiny villages with Wadis on both sides. We saw some beautiful old fashioned villas enroute. We reached Shirgaon at 5.20 pm. Shirgaon Fort has tall fortification. A minar like tower above the entrance signifies Islamic architecture. The fort has 4 bastions and 2 towers. The Tower above north-east bastion has 2 balconies in it with spiral staircase leading to the upper balcony. The Bastion on South West is huge and has a staircase that opens in a room under the main stairway for the rampart. A five-feet cannon on the northwest of citadel marks the history of the battles that took place over here. This fort is supposedly built by Sultan of Gujarat who ruled over this area before the Portuguese. The Portuguese had dominance over this fort before Marathas. Marathas won this fort in 1739. In 1818, the British captured this fort from the Marathas. An exciting sight in this fort is a palm tree with six to seven branches, a rarity. It’s called “Ravan-Maad”.

Our trek ended at Shirgaon fort. Next shuttle from Palghar to Virar was at 6.50 pm. Anyhow we had to catch it. We left Shirgaon fort at 6.10 pm. Enroute, I checked with Mr. Javale (Bus-owner) about the status of the Bus. I thought if it’s started then it’s better, faster & safer (with kids along) than train journey. But it hadn’t. I told him we would take train back home. The tum-tum dropped us at Palghar Station at 6.40 pm. We took train tickets, many of us crossed the FOB & reached the platform and the most miserable event happened. Mr. Javale called me and informed that the Bus had started. I was happy to hear that. I told him to send the Bus to Palghar Station. I broke the good news to all and we moved out of the station to have much required tea / snacks. I expected that by the time we would finish having tea / snacks, the Bus would reach Palghar. An hour passed but there was no sign of the Bus coming. Madhav called driver, who told him that though the Bus had started, Headlights were not working. He was driving without headlights. As per our estimate for him to reach Saphale (without headlights) and then to Palghar would have taken another 2 hours. We decided to take 8.20 pm shuttle to VIrar. I still don’t know why the hell that Axx Hxxx, Mr. Javale called me & gave half information that the Bus started but not the headlights. Without his call, we had taken 6.50 pm shuttle to Virar and saved more than 1 hour. As a Leader, I was put up in an embarrassing position and had no answer for the delay.

Shraddha & Malti were furious to know that the Bus was not coming and by train they would reach home (Badlapur) post midnight. I had no choice but to bear the brunt of their anger. Later, I could manage to pacify them with long & patient discussion. Reverse was the case with the Kids who were overjoyed with the thought that we were late and they will reach home as late as possible. Return journey was by a shuttle from Palghar to Virar, Local train from Virar to Borivali then to Dadar & to Mulund. We reached Mulund at 11.45 pm.

The Bus blunder being exception ….all enjoyed the trek and went home happily with plans to meet again for a get-together of participants of Kelve-Mahim Trek.


Organisation – Chakram Hikers, Mulund

Route – Mulund – Ghodbunder Road – Vasai – Varai Phata – Tandulwadi phata – Saphale – Rambag – Usarani - Edwan – Datiware – Madhukarnagar – Kelve – Mahim – Shirgaon – Palghar

Members – Rajan Mahajan, Shridatta Raut, Sandeep, Shridatta’s friend, Kavita R, Roel Almeida, Ashok Thorat, Madhav Phadke, Nikhil Phadke, Atharva Ranade, Chinmay, Shaunak, Maitri, Rasika, Deepashre, Bhagyashree, Shiva, Devendra, Sudhir Deshpande, Shraddha, Malti, Anil Dengale, Subhash, Kabeer, Shivani, Varada, Chandra Damle, Sunit, Ashish,

Water / Food – All forts are located near villages with small hotels. Water can be fetched from hotels. Kelve is good place to eat if you are not carrying packed lunch. Bhavangad has a perennial water tank on it.

Shridatta Raut - 9930139141